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David Koma has turned the page at Blumarine. Roses are thornier, red is blood-stained—romance is edgier, nocturnal. His rejuvenation cure is about administering some tough love, with an eye to cinematic fantasies of sultry Sicilian female glamour. “It’s dark, shadowed romanticism,” he said. Koma has honed a modernist, rigorous approach to design—he favors sharp lines, precision, control, structure. Now he faces the challenge of balancing these elements with the label’s frivolous and flirty spirit, giving collections concision without detracting from lightness.