Brioni Menswear Spring 2026

“Renaulution” is the transformation strategy through which the newly named CEO of Kering Group, Milan-born Luca de Meo, has over the last few years uplifted the fortunes of France’s greatest automotive group. Now, transplanted to luxury, his new role will require him to “Guccelerate” performance in order to generate a “Kerinaissance.” It will also demand that he dress the part—and that demand can only be appropriately answered by wearing Kering-crafted tailoring. But from where? Only three brands in the Kering Group have true masculine tailoring heritage. And with all due respect to the sharply-shouldered, flare-panted flaneur silhouette of Saint Laurent, or the agonizingly complicated elegance of Alexander McQueen, by far the most compelling candidate for the new boss’s uniform is Brioni. This morning’s presentation at the Palazzo Stampa Soncino showcased the commandingly multifaceted nature of Brioni’s menswear authority. As we entered, white-jacketed artisans from the label’s 66-year-old tailoring production line in Penne, Abruzzo, showcased tasks including hand-fashioning buttonholes, hand-stitching a tuxedo’s shoulder, hand-building a felted undercollar, and hand-scalpelling an already sliver-thin section of silk-cashmere. The gentleman working (extremely rapidly) on the tuxedo had attended Brioni’s tailoring school when still in his teens, and he has worked there ever since, a total of 18 years.