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Cult Gaia designer Jasmin Larian Hekmat may be a Leo, but judging by her new collection, you would think she’s a textbook Gemini. Her spring assortment zeroed in on the art of duality, aiming to juxtapose opposing aesthetics for a stylish end result. “I wanted to play on the contrast between two opposing forces,” she said. “We played between the hard and the soft, and the feminine and the savage.” The starting point was her familiar vacation-ready dresses and slinky party gowns to examine such an inspiration this season. If the short, bodycon dresses leaned more pretty, they were finished in tougher materials, such as hand-braided jerseys or sunset-ombréd beads. There was a real focus on textures, and the unexpected material plays—like a draped corset top and mini skirt made of wooden beads, or a knit mini dress with a skirt made of fringed tassels—proved to be standouts. “It was all about making a party dress more exciting,” said Hekmat. “If it bores me, I’m just like, ‘What’s the point?’”