David Koma Pre-Fall 2025

Having recently drawn on the anthropomorphic sculptures of Isabelle Albuquerque, David Koma this season set his sights on a different kind of shape-shifting superwoman: the Bond girl. “She’s confident, empowering, and dangerous,” he said during a preview of his pre-fall collection in his Shoreditch studio. “Just like the Koma girl.” Between the graphic architecture of a little black dress and the liquid sequins of an almost-transparent gown, the designer burnished—when it would have been just as interesting to see him complicate—the femme fatale trope: a black widow weaponizing her powers of seduction with a come-hither gaze and a lethal touch. Koma said he began by setting his design team three James Bond movies to watch, starting with 1995’s