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David Koma had just returned from Stromboli, Italy—where he’d been on set shooting a Blumarine look book—when it was time to present his own resort collection in London. Lace, pearls, and sugar-rush pastels—signatures more closely linked to Blumarine than to the graphic, femme-fatale-coded vision of his namesake womenswear—cooed from the rails of his Shoreditch studio. The influence was fun to speculate on, but Koma was sure to dismiss any direct comparisons between his respective brands. “I always swing between extremes,” he explained. “Last season was tough, whereas this time I wanted to see how soft I could take it while still making the clothes feel strong and empowering to women. I wanted to use femininity as a sort of weapon.” Koma set forth on his mission with a rewatch of the hit series