Ferrari Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear

After four seasons competing on the highly challenging fashion circuit, Rocco Iannone is finding his stride under the bonnet of a tricky and perplexing brief: to translate Ferrari’s pre-eminence on the autostrada to some kind of status on the runway. By considering key car making criteria—aerodynamics, movement, and progress—yet being (on the whole) less literally in thrall to the petrolhead codes of the Prancing Horse, this season’s collection represented a tangible shift up a gear. It took confidence not to race out of the grid, instead hitting the first few laps in muted dark tones of modernized tailoring and workwear with oversized seam detailing. Next Iannone gently accelerated into looks decorated with the fringed Ferrari lettering. Some strong washed denim followed—“I’d wear that jean all day long” said my benchmate declaratively—notable for its carefully oversize cut and leather detailing. Then it was back to the Ferrari-name decoration, this time in 15-color yarn intarsias sometimes blurred with the motion of more fringing. Then we entered a padding chicane that was there to reference the famous driver jumpsuits but which also—in the protective-looking vests—echoed kenjutsu-wear. The super rounded pants worn afterwards seemed to reference those famous images of David Bowie in Kansai Yamamoto.