Fforme Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear

The fall 2023 Fforme presentation took place at a gallery in Chelsea. It was a fitting location to showcase Paul Helbers’s approach to making clothes, which revolves around a curiosity and experimentation with architectural shapes. For this third collection, Helbers continued to expand the visual vocabulary of the brand, honing in on voluminous shapes and subtle details that elevated everyday pieces. “For me this is a metamorphosis of what we were already doing,” he said during an appointment, “Last season it was about hold and release tunics and corsets, and there was something skinny about it, and now it’s like the insect is popping out,” he added, laughing. A cropped puffer jacket—a new category for the brand—was the perfect example of this metamorphosis. It was constructed with a subtle A-line shape that gathered into the body while standing away from it. “I wanted it to look like you don’t understand where the volume is coming from,” he explained. The raglan sleeves were puffy but still bore a distinct geometric shape while being able to lay flat against the body. On the back, they were carefully gathered into the bodice, creating an effect more suited for a delicate gown than a utilitarian coat. “It took me three months to get the sleeves on,” said Helbers.