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If you were to compare Frederick Anderson’s fall collection to his previous spring one, you would be met with quite the shock: His former Barbie-pink-everything assortment took a dramatic turn this season, with the designer focusing on a mostly black color palette instead. Anderson admitted he was feeling a bit down for fall. “We’re in a tough time,” he said, pointing to the current political mood. “And when I’m in a tough time, I often pull into myself and try to find something deeper.” His clothes weren’t meant to be a downer, however—in fact, quite the opposite. By forgoing sugary hues, Anderson wanted to focus on strong silhouettes and textures that imbued his women with a sense of power and strength. His muses for the season were soulful or blues singers such as Amy Winehouse and Nina Simone, two women who were known to always command a room with their aura. (Singer Amber Iman opened the show, singing Simone’s “Feeling Good.”)