Looks shown directly in this presentation.
The first gray cashmere flannel suit, loose of leg and long of jacket, was accessorized at its peak lapel by a red stone brooch in the shape of a lion’s head. The near-identical look that followed it featured a brooch shaped like a crab. Silvana Armani’s star sign is Leo, while her late uncle Giorgio Armani was a Cancer. This was the only explicit runway gesture toward the profound shift in the Armani universe that this collection marked as Silvana’s first as designer in chief. Yet there were also implicit signs within the clothes she proposed. There was a beautifully confident consistency to the opening section’s exploration of tailored form around a template of dark flannel, pale pants, and off-red belt. The asymmetry of Look 10’s double-breasted shawl-collared facade was reflected in the triple pleats at the back of the shoulder. Looks 6 and 23 included three-button blousons in cashmere and shearling with a square-edged dropped hem at the back: These mirrored the raised neckline above the bosom of the burgundy jacquard belted rompers later. A few long coats made precise calculation impossible, but there seemed to be only one outfit—Look 3’s severely luxurious kangaroo-pocket flannel dress and darker overcoat—that didn’t feature pants.