Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2025

, the Saint Laurent-wardrobed, Luis Buñuel-directed 1967 film starring Catherine Deneuve that was his starting-point for pre-fall. Films form the backbone of Zhang’s collections: some seasons, he directly references palettes or prints, while other times, he captures a mood. In the case of pre-fall, it’s the latter. “I like to express my experience and feelings from a movie,” he said during a Zoom preview from China. “That’s something I always really enjoy doing.” The opener, a double-faced wool opera coat with a detachable embroidered collar, paired with the same fishnet tights and pointed-toe kitten heels that ground all the looks, epitomizes Huishan’s focus on daywear, which amplifies each season. Next up: a salmon-pink sequined dress embroidered with floral appliqué that gave a taste of the elaborate signatures that followed, which were rendered in guipure lace, layers of tulle, and all-over embellishments.