Kallmeyer Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear

For a few years now, Daniella Kallmeyer’s namesake label has been the go-to for the cool New York City (and beyond) women for whom wearing a suit is simply a way of life. Walking into her fall presentation at La Mercerie it was easy to see why. The models stood tableau-style in the middle of the restaurant, but all around them, tables were full of Kallmeyer’s friends and fans looking ineffably cool, sporting their own pieces. The 37-year-old designer began her business 12 years ago after stints at Alexander McQueen, McQ, and Luca Luca; but four years ago, she opened a brick-and-mortar store in the Lower East Side. “I almost feel like the brand was reborn when we opened the retail store,” she said. “We were so inspired by the different types of women who came through the door and we were able to almost rebuild the DNA of the label and expand from there.” Because Kallmeyer designs for concrete women rather than a fantasy idea, there are no lofty inspirations to be found. “My inspiration is my customers,” she said. (She described the “Kallmeyer woman” as “an intellectual. Discerning. When she enters a room she doesn’t announce herself, she introduces herself. Friendly,” and it gave the impression that she was describing both herself and specific women in her life.) But she admitted to looking at images of vintage skiing photos from the ’60s and ’70s, which more obviously informed some pieces like the chunky ribbed sweaters with intarsia V-patterns on the front, or the stretchy Italian knit fabric that she used to create elegantly draped long sleeve tops and one devastatingly sensual red dress; but nothing that would suddenly seem outdated next year or even five years from now.