Kallmeyer Pre-Fall 2025

Although Daniella Kallmeyer’s namesake label is known for its cooler-than-cool tailoring and sense of casual ease, the designer does not subscribe to the aesthetic tenets of quiet luxury. “People have used [the term] as a way of saying that if something is simple, or if it looks austere or elitist, then it must be luxury,” she said during an appointment in her Chinatown showroom. “To me, luxury has always been about the moments of personalization, craft, and expertise; and so I really wanted to explore that in this collection.” Kallmeyer mentioned looking to the work of Cristobal Balenciaga, Pierre Cardin, and Fortuny for inspiration, which at first seemed at odds with her modern and practical approach to dressing, but it all worked. Her tailored separates were completely transformed by the use of silk taffeta. A cropped jacket with an A-line silhouette and a new version of the brand’s It trouser, the Clemence, with its drawstring waistband and a gorgeously draped curved pant leg, were standouts, simultaneously referencing a vintage glamour while retaining a sporty ease.