Lemaire Menswear Autumn 2024

Were it not for the irresistible lure of Lemaire, people attending today’s show might have opted to remain under the covers, such was the dreary, cold, wet weather this morning. As it happens, the collection duly accommodated both scenarios: soft underpinnings and pajamas for staying in that, through deft layering, do double duty as city dressing topped with outerwear to withstand the elements. Held for the first time in the brand’s headquarters off the Place des Vosges, the show’s staging comprised a raised, circular runway conceived by artist Fran Cottell. As the models (diverse in age and background, if not size) entered from the courtyard, they made the loop with clever yet natural choreography—lingering long enough so we would notice doubled-up, tone-on-tone jackets; twirling to accentuate the movement of a ballet-style wrap skirt; proceeding with purpose in a relaxed, cacao-colored suit or total look in limestone. One model wearing black stirrup leggings, a sheer overskirt and block heels had a pair of derbies swinging from her bag. No more “hiding flat shoes for the subway.” Somehow in Lemaire, effortless and impeccable coexist.