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The last outfit on Christophe Lemaire's catwalk today—a biscuit-colored coat with matching backpack—showed his woman at her best: intrepid, determined, on the move. To describe Lemaire's modus operandi as "evolution" is too bland for the quiet forcefulness of his clothes; "evolution with elevation" might be more appropriate. After the show, Lemaire talked about a new precision in both his look and his business. "The determination was always there," he said, "but my experience at Hermès has given me even more confidence." He took time to credit his team and his partner, Sarah-Linh Tran. Now that Hermès is in the past, Lemaire can devote all his creative energy to his own collection. It showed today. The show took place in a huge, meditative space in the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, to a soundtrack of Nini Raviolette's "