Lemaire Menswear Spring 2020

The raggedly insouciant style of Rüdiger Vogler in 1974’s Wim Wenders road trip —plus the mien of the band that composed some of the soundtrack, Krautrock space-meisters Can—were the cited reference for Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire’s latest riff. Long and wide high-waisted pants and slightly box-shouldered but feather-light jacketing shaped the more formal silhouette while patch-pocket sailor pants with the quietest of kicks in white denim and cropped blousons drove the informal in tandem with soft topstitched cotton-linen workwear (whose wearing would make a pleasure of labor). Crepe-soled sneakers were based on boxing shoes, but pragmatically lowered—“a real boxing shoe is a romance killer, if you ask me”—observed Lemaire. Tran added that the purposefully matte aspect of their carefully hued palette of earthy tones was intended to create an impression “of something powdery that is very sensual.”