Lii Menswear Autumn 2025

Zane Li and his partner, the stylist Jason Rider, traded New York for Paris this season. The experiment aligns with the release of their first men’s collection, they explained, and will apply to the womenswear lineup to be unveiled next month. (Otherwise they’d be showing that in New York in just two weeks—not ideal.) It’s a shame for New York, really, that some young designers with promise feel the need to make the jump this early on. Chalk it up to the amount of buyers and editors who bypass the city each season. But then again, why would they make the trip when the proverbial mountain keeps coming to them? As for this outing, at a tight 22 looks, it made for a delicious and appetizing amuse-bouche (hey, when in Paris!). And while the collection was based on Li’s persuasive and idiosyncratic point of view on American sportswear, and borrowed from the peculiarities of “how boys looked in Takeshi Kitano’s movies,” as Li said at a preview, the designer might consider framing this lineup as a fall men’s and women’s pre-fall twofer. There was lots of covetable gender agnostic fashion here, something he’ll likely hear from his buyers, too. How he packages the wider women’s lineup in March, and how they’re both received, should help Li flesh out this approach moving forward.