Loro Piana Menswear Spring 2025

Loro Piana shows its men’s and women’s collections intermingled on mannequins. Walking through the crowd of strikingly styled and hat-heavy—especially in womenswear—static ensembles today we heard how these collections majored on linen, and saw some interesting fabrications. It turns out if you mix linen with cashmere in an undyed cable knit cardigan, its hand-feel retains more of the flaxy hardiness of the vegetal softness of the animal. Linen was elsewhere blended with Manila hemp—a banana plant—or used in handsome triple-bonded summer raincoat cut for both genders. There were linen-silk blends, twisted linens, and linen flower prints. Linen’s most appealing properties include moisture absorption and breathability. Once you breathed a little and instead of trying to absorb the full spectrum of this Loro Piana–verse focused on picking out individual garments—imaginary shopping, basically—today’s presentation became breezier. Womenswear highlights included a gorgeously finished leather field jacket that would have looked delightful over some washed LP denim and a vintage martini-print silk shirt. A highly impressive embroidered and shaved cashmere jacket in a ribbed liner shape looked like a wonderful vintage piece.