MM6 Maison Margiela Pre-Fall 2018

Many of the most buzzed-about brands in fashion right now got where they are by knocking off the work of Martin Margiela. Nobody knows that better than the anonymous team of designers behind MM6, who have spent the better part of the past four seasons working to reclaim Margiela’s heritage. They’ve remade the vareuse, they’ve crafted lab coats in chemical-spill green velvet, and they’ve put transparent PVC front and center. But something was off in their Pre-Fall equation. The color palette, all dusty beiges and flecked grays, read a little drab. The collection’s oversize and boxy silhouettes didn’t help brighten the mood. Sometimes the big and beigey thing worked, like in a -esque trench, but on the whole, the collection lacked vibrancy.